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Mastering Beer: A Conversation with Master Cicerone Jen Blair

 

by Lindsay Malu Kido

 

In a world where craft beer is not just a beverage but a culture, the Cicerone Certification Program stands as a beacon of knowledge and expertise. Designed to cultivate a deeper understanding and appreciation of beer, this program offers a ladder of certifications culminating in the esteemed title of Master Cicerone. This pinnacle of beer knowledge is not just a certification; it’s a testament to an individual’s dedication, expertise, and passion for the craft. Among the elite few who have achieved this title is Jen Blair, whose journey to becoming a Master Cicerone is a tale of resilience, commitment, and a deep love for beer.

 

Jen Blair, residing in Atlanta, GA, serves as the exam manager for the Cicerone Certification Program and is a co-host of the podcast “False Bottomed Girls.” Her path in the beer world began over ten years ago as a homebrewer, and later, she spent two years as a professional brewer. Her journey through the Cicerone program is a reflection of her determination to overcome the challenges of a male-dominated industry and to establish herself as an expert in a field often dominated by cis white male voices.

 

Photo of Jen judging the Best of Show at the North Carolina Brewers Cup.

 

The Cicerone Certification Program itself, where Jen plays a pivotal role, is structured to guide and educate beer enthusiasts through various levels of proficiency. It starts with the Certified Beer Server, a foundational level focusing on beer service and basic knowledge, then progresses to the Certified Cicerone, which requires a more profound understanding of beer styles, brewing, and service. The Advanced Cicerone level challenges candidates further in flavor evaluation and beer ingredients. At the apex is the Master Cicerone certification, a rigorous examination that tests a candidate’s expertise in all aspects of beer and brewing.

 

Jen’s journey through these levels is marked by perseverance and a relentless pursuit of knowledge. She earned her Certified Beer Server in 2015 and became a Certified Cicerone in 2016. Her path to becoming an Advanced Cicerone was fraught with challenges, requiring her to retake parts of the exam multiple times before achieving certification in 2018. Her pursuit of the Master Cicerone title was equally arduous. She first sat for the exam in 2021, and after narrowly missing the mark, she finally achieved her goal in 2023, joining a prestigious and small group of beer experts worldwide.

 

In this conversation with Jen Blair, we delve into her experiences, the trials and triumphs of her journey, and her perspectives on the beer industry. Her story is not just about achieving a coveted title; it’s about breaking barriers, fostering inclusivity, and inspiring others in the craft beer community.

 

Q&A with Jen Blair

 

BIFE: Hey Jen! Congratulations on achieving Master Cicerone! That is amazing! Beer is for Everyone is excited to talk to you today about your accomplishments and journey. 

 

Can you tell us a little about yourself?

My name is Jen Blair, and I live in Atlanta, GA. I am the exam manager for the Cicerone Certification Program and co-host of False Bottomed Girls, a podcast about beer and brewing. I have been a homebrewer for about 10 years and was a professional brewer for 2 years.

 

How did you get into beer?

I first got into craft beer when my sister suggested I replace my Bud Light with Boulevard Brewing’s Unfiltered Wheat Ale. Like many new craft beer enthusiasts, I focused my early craft beer days on experiencing all sorts of styles. In 2013, I started homebrewing, and my passion for beer and brewing grew even larger.

 

What is your favorite beer?

My favorite beer depends on a lot of factors – who I’m with, where I am, what season it is. My favorite beers have been the first ones I enjoy in a foreign country. For a long time, being able to travel for fun wasn’t something that seemed possible for me, and it’s still surreal to enjoy beer in another country. No matter where I go and no matter who I’m with, though, the first beer I order will always be the smoked one.

 

Can you describe your journey through the Cicerone program? Give us a timeline, if possible.

I started homebrewing in 2013 and wanted to learn more about beer. As a woman in a male-dominated hobby and industry, I got talked at rather than talked to more often than not. In many cases, my presence or interest wasn’t even acknowledged. When I first learned about the Cicerone program, I encouraged my now-husband, then-boyfriend, to pursue becoming a Certified Cicerone. 

 

One day I realized that I could pursue my Certified Cicerone, not just encourage my boyfriend to do it. With the Cicerone program, I found a learning structure in terms of the syllabus and recommended resources that allowed me to learn on my own, and being a homebrewer meant that I could put the theory I was learning into practice. 

 

I earned my Certified Beer Server in 2015 and immediately registered for a Certified Cicerone exam with 10 weeks to prepare. I passed the written portion on my first attempt but had to retake the tasting portion two more times until I passed. I earned my Certified Cicerone in April 2016, one week after I got married.

 

I decided pretty quickly after that that I would pursue the newly-announced Advanced Cicerone certification. I took my Advanced Cicerone exam for the first time in January 2017. I didn’t pass my Advanced Cicerone the first time. Or the second. Or the third. I passed my tasting portion the second time I took the exam but had to retake the written portion four times before I passed. I passed my Advanced Cicerone exams in November 2018 and had Master Cicerone solidly in my sights for 2020.

 

Given the pandemic, I wasn’t able to take my Master Cicerone exam for the first time until November 2021. It’s rare for people to pass their Master Cicerone exam on the first try, and I was no exception. Although I scored higher than average for a first-time taker, I didn’t pass. I retook the exam in June 2022 and missed passing by two points. Being that close to passing was definitely hard, and I spent a lot of time considering whether I wanted to attempt the exam a third time. I’m not the type to quit right before the finish line, but studying and prepping for the Master Cicerone is time- and money-consuming.

 

I eventually decided to take the exam for a third and final time. No matter what the outcome was, I wasn’t going to take it more than 3 times. I took the exam for the third time in October 2023 and learned that I had passed in November 2023 as part of the largest group that has ever passed the exam.

 

Jen modified the board game, Guess Who, to “Guess Brew” to gamify blind tasting.

 

What was the hardest part of the program for you?

Growing up, I was always an excellent student because I have a good memory and a knack for understanding what teachers want you to say. Studying for Cicerone, I realized that memorization was helpful, but actually, having the practical experience was far more helpful. I was not used to getting answers incorrect, nor was I used to having to rely on myself and my skills rather than parroting the desired answers. It was an extremely uncomfortable process, one that made me feel vulnerable in ways I never had. 

 

I eventually became more comfortable with being uncomfortable and vulnerable, although getting answers incorrect still bugs me. Having to learn to rely on myself and trust my own judgments was the hardest part of the process, but I’m so thankful for the learning journey pursuing all levels of Cicerone taught me.

 

Was there anything that could have helped you in your journey?

As a woman in a male-dominated industry, it is commonplace to be dismissed, ignored, talked over, talked down to. I wanted to pursue Cicerone certifications in part because I was never afforded the assumption of skill I saw the (often less knowledgable) men around me being given. It wasn’t enough to be a woman who liked beer – I had to be an expert just to start getting the same level of assumed knowledge men around me were getting. I couldn’t be just as good, I had to be better.

 

One thing that would have helped me in my journey was getting connected to other women pursuing their certifications sooner. Studying for something like a Cicerone exam can be isolating because you’re spending so much time studying. As a society, we’re also socialized that women have to compete with each other for limited spots at the table, which is not true in reality. I am eternally grateful for finding other women on their own Cicerone journeys with whom I could connect and share my successes and failures. Because I went through so much of my journey without women around me who knew exactly what I was going through, I try to show up as much as possible for the women I know who are on their own Cicerone journey, letting them know it’s okay to get answers wrong and it’s okay to take time to master information.

 

Was there anyone that helped you along the way?

So many people have helped me along the way. My husband, first and foremost, has been my biggest supporter and is always there to let me feel my feelings and then encourage me to keep going. He has set up so many blind tastings for me and has worked through so many flashcards with me, both of which are truly boring tasks when you’re not studying for the exams.

 

My best friend is also on her Cicerone journey, and we’ve taken the Master Cicerone exam together twice. We were also fortunate to connect with two other women taking the Master Cicerone exam this year, and the four of us spoke almost daily leading up to the exam, asking questions, encouraging each other, and commiserating over the process. I’m so fortunate to have a tight-knit friend group who have all also been on their own Cicerone journeys. 

 

I also have an extended universe of online friends who encouraged me, wished me luck leading up to the exam, and celebrated with me when I learned I passed the Master Cicerone exam.

 

Jen, Rachael Hudson of Pilot Brewing, and Lauren Richard on the morning of the first day of the Master Cicerone exam.

 

From what you know, what does the demographic of Master level Cicerone look like?

There are now 28 Master Cicerones worldwide. Twenty-three of them are men, and 5 are women. There are Master Cicerones from the US, Canada, Australia, Argentina, and the UK. Approximately 93% of the Master Cicerone group is white.

 

Is it important to encourage diversity of participants in the Cicerone programs? If so, why?

Yes, it is very important to encourage diversity of participants in the Cicerone program because beer enthusiasts are not a monolith, and the beer industry has been centered around cis, white, male voices for too long. We’re seeing some in the industry trying to court new populations to beer without wanting to put in the work to understand why the populations are not well-represented in the first place.

 

One of the things that resonated with me most about the Cicerone program is the democratization of beer knowledge. It’s no longer held in the hands of a secretive few men in the industry. The syllabi and recommended resources for the various levels of certification are available for free, and anyone wanting a structure for learning more about beer and brewing can use both as a framework for self- or group study.

 

How do we bring more diversity to the program? To beer, in general?

Pursuing any level of Cicerone certification is a big investment both in terms of time and money, and it’s important to recognize and acknowledge that. Communities historically excluded from beer have also historically been excluded from things like financial assistance, capital investment, and business opportunities. They are also more likely to have far more demands on their time than the population centered within the beer industry. We don’t all have the same 24 hours in a day, and we don’t all have the financial freedom to purchase several books, exams, study beers, etc. It’s tricky for the program because it is a for-profit corporation, so it does not have the same incentives and business decisions as a non-profit. There are a handful of non-profit programs out there offering scholarships for Cicerone studying, and I’d love to see more of them also offering the support network that’s needed for candidate success. 

 

Historically excluded communities especially need spaces created for them where they can be vulnerable, address the issues facing them in a safe space, and celebrate each others’ wins.

 

What advice would you give to those going through the Cicerone program?

More people fail a few times and then succeed than people who ace everything on their first attempt, and that’s totally okay. It’s more important to really understand and master the concepts as a beer professional than it is to get a high score on an exam. Making mistakes and retaking the exams are learning opportunities, not setbacks, and are far more common than they can feel sometimes. Talk about and celebrate what may feel like failures because being vulnerable is how we can build a stronger community.

 

Anything you wish you knew throughout the program?

I wish I knew how common it was that people don’t pass on their first time or even after multiple attempts. It’s a challenging program by design, and I have learned far more by having to lick my wounds and regroup than I ever would have learned if I had sailed right through the program.

 

How did you celebrate this amazing accomplishment?

I cried and then told a handful of people how I did before the announcement was made public. As a newly-minted Master Cicerone, I made myself SpaghettiO’s and grilled cheese for dinner because that’s what sounded good, and I paired it with an American Pale Ale.

 

What does this mean for your career?

Honestly, I’m not sure what it means for my career. I hope it will help open more doors for me. I plan to use this certification to continue being a good steward of beer and helping more historically excluded people navigate through the beer industry and remake the industry into an image more reflective of all the populations who enjoy and celebrate beer.

 

What do you see for your future in beer?

I will continue to advocate for myself and others and continue pushing to have the establishment “say the quiet part out loud” and acknowledge the barriers that currently exist. Becoming a Master Cicerone is also a signal that, yes, I, in fact, know what I’m talking about when it comes to beer. I also have a couple of book ideas and a sensory project that I think has the potential to completely change the beer industry for the better.

 

(End of Q & A)

 

Jen Blair’s journey to becoming a Master Cicerone is more than a story of personal triumph; it’s a narrative that resonates with the core values of the craft beer community — passion, perseverance, and a relentless pursuit of excellence. Her achievements within the Cicerone Certification Program underscore not only her profound knowledge of beer but also her commitment to raising the standards of beer service and education. As one of the few to hold the prestigious title of Master Cicerone, Jen has established herself as a leading voice in a field that is evolving and expanding with each passing year.

 

Throughout our conversation, Jen’s insights into the world of beer have been both enlightening and inspiring. Her approach to overcoming challenges, her emphasis on the importance of community support, and her advocacy for diversity in the beer industry are lessons that extend beyond the realms of brewing and beer tasting. They speak to the heart of what it means to be part of a community that is as diverse as it is passionate.

 

Jen’s story is particularly impactful in highlighting the importance of diversity and inclusivity in the beer industry. Her dedication to breaking the long-standing dominance of cis white male voices in beer reflects a broader movement within the industry to embrace and celebrate a variety of perspectives and experiences. This shift is not just about bringing new voices to the table; it’s about enriching the entire culture of craft beer, making it more welcoming and accessible to all.

 

As we conclude our conversation, it’s clear that Jen’s impact on the beer industry extends far beyond her impressive credentials. Her journey is a beacon for aspiring beer professionals, a testament to the power of resilience, and a reminder of the joy and fulfillment that comes from pursuing one’s passions. Jen Blair’s story is a vivid illustration of the ever-evolving landscape of the craft beer industry and a shining example of how dedication and a love for one’s craft can lead to remarkable achievements.

 

Looking ahead, Jen’s future in beer is undoubtedly bright. With plans to continue advocating for inclusivity, exploring new ventures, and sharing her vast knowledge, she remains a pivotal figure in the ongoing narrative of craft beer. Her journey, marked by both its challenges and triumphs, stands as an inspiration to all who aspire to reach the heights of their chosen fields, reminding us that with passion, perseverance, and a supportive community, anything is possible.

 

Follow Jen Blair:

Website: https://underthejenfluence.beer/
Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/underthejenfluence/
YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2E_p4QVSMfiPRo65ztHnGA

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